Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot   

Frankfort Avenue Beer Depot, a small beer joint and barbecue eatery. Considering its tasteful Crescent Hill environs, surrounded by affluent residential blocks and the chateau-like buildings of the Louisville Water Co., “FABD” seems surprisingly downscale with its dark, spartan environment, pool table and distinctive aromas of stale beer and cigarette smoke. But the oversize drum smoker out front and the ranks of cars that always pack the parking lot hint that this is no ordinary barbecue house. Not only are the ribs here possibly the best I’ve tasted yet, but even the side dishes bespeak the presence of a very serious cook. In simple terms, if the environment bothers you, buy takeout, or walk your plate out to the big picnic tables in the small, walled beer garden. But go. Get some ribs. And some sides. You will not be sorry. A half-rack of ribs ($12 with two sides) were meaty, long smoked and lean. Gentle smoke flavor and a complex, spicy dry rub came together to complement the toothsome meat like a fine Bordeaux complements a filet mignon. The ribs were properly juicy and tender but not slipping off the bone. Three thumbs up! Wait, I’ve only got two thumbs, but you know what I mean. A half-chicken dinner ($8) was beautiful to the eyes and palate: mahogany brown and glistening skin-cloaked chicken done just right, tender and juicy with a good, subtle and complex smoke flavor. Again, great barbecue really needs no sauce, but if you want it, FABD’s squeeze-bottle sauce is just fine, dark red, spicy and a little vinegary but not gloppy thick. About those splendid sides: Green beans, long-cooked of course, were loaded with chunks of pulled pork and good black-pepper flavor. Baked beans were juicy and tender, with a sweet-hot sauce and intriguing back notes of spice and fruit. The potato salad featured tender, chilled chunks of red-skinned potato cooked to waxy tenderness and sauced with a tasty pink cream reminiscent of Thousand Island dressing. Onion rings were excellent, too, thick-cut and sweet, cloaked in a crispy, grease-free breading fried golden-brown. The whole works came to $23.20 for two, plus tip, which seemed more than fair. There was no extra charge for the second-hand smoke in the bar.